How to Clean Your Pond
Step V - Re-filling the Pond and Water Testing
Once you have the pond all cleaned out, the
filters and skimmer cleaned, plants trimmed up and re-potted if
necessary - then you're ready to start filling up the pond.
(Filling the Pond)
Since it will take some time to fill, start by
turning on the hose and letting it fill. Depending on the
size of the pond, you'll have plenty of time to start putting
everything back in as it fills. This is just another time
Place plants, rocks, and underwater lights where
you want them to be and make sure the filter is situated
properly and secured if necessary. Once you have
everything ready and in place, it's a good time to calculate the
pond volume (if you don't already know it) and add any necessary
de-chlorinators to treat the water.
(Position the lights and rocks)
IMPORTANT: Make sure you know what your
local municipality treats its water with. In the past,
city water has been treated primarily with Chlorine, which will
evaporate in a couple days. However, the new trend with
treating city water is to use Chloramine (Chlorine and Ammonia)
which is very toxic to fish, and DOES NOT evaporate.
In either case, it's best to use a commercial
de-chlorinator like Ammo-LockII when treating your pond.
(De-chlorinate the water)
To calculate the number of gallons in your pond,
use this formula:
Pond Volume = L x W x Avg Depth x 7.5
Basically, there are 7.5 gallons in each cubic
foot - so base your estimates accordingly. It's generally
ok to over of under dose the de-chlorinators within a reasonable
amount (say 10%) but you should really have a good idea of how
many gallons your pond holds.
As your pond fills, now is a good time to check
on the fish, and make sure that they are still doing fine - and
not gasping for air at the top. We recommend checking on
the fish every 1/2 hour during the pond cleaning process to make
sure they do not appear distressed.
(Check on the fish)
We also now want to test the pH of the pond
water in the tub, and compare it to the new water going into the
pond. Fish can live in a wide range of pH, when acclimated
over time - but it can severe stress (and even death) to alter
the pH of the pond water too quickly. The same holds true
for temperature and salinity changes.
It's just a good habit and idea to try and match
the pH of the holding tub water, to that of the new water in the
pond. Generally, city water has a very high pH (or is very
Alkaline) whereas well water can often have a very low pH (or is
So, test both and compare the two. If one
is highly alkaline, and the other is acid or neutral - use a
product like pH down to lower the pH of the higher one, or use
pH UP to raise the pH if one is acidic.
(Check the pH of the water)
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