|
AquadyneTM - Operational Instructions
In Brief:
The subject of filtration is probably going to be
one of the most frustrating decisions you will have to make in building your water garden
paradise. It would be so easy to say just go out and buy yourself a good filter and
install it, but that would be like saying just any car will get gas mileage, without
bothering to tell you how much. Without going into great detail, it is very important to
have a biologically correct filter system attached to your pond if you plan to have a fish
population. You will first need to ask yourself how much labor are you willing to put into
keeping your filter clean. There is a direct relationship between filter cost, and labor
required to maintain, that is, within a range of quality filters. It also seems that there
is an endless line of filters waiting to go inside your pond for almost anything you want
to pay for them. One thing to consider is whether you are looking for a simple mechanical
filter to keep the suspended solids out of a small pond with very few fish, or are you
seeking to biologically consume the waste products that your fish population will be
producing, no matter what size the pond or regardless of how many fish you have. As you
will see in the pages that follow you will discover one of the newest and most functional
filters available on the market today. Due to the lack of availability of a truly great
filter with a zero complaint factor, we have developed, hold patent pending on, and are
the only producer of the Aquadyne bead filtration system. We have been so successful with
this brain child of mine that we have discontinued representing any other manufacturers
filter systems, and maintain a nationwide advertising campaign in 5 major periodical
magazines which you will see on most any news stand or bookstore shelf. Aquadyne is truly
"the worlds first perfect bead filter system".
Be sure not to miss the Dyna~Max option available
on 4 of our five bead systems.
Backwashing:
Let your filter run for several days before you
perform your first backwash. You may leave your pump running when performing backwashing
operations. However, if you do leave your pump running, be careful not to allow the
control valve to slip into the closed position, as this will likely cause your pump to
cavitate and may cause damage to the unit. Also you will likely not be able to move the
handle again without turning the pump off. Hayward suggests turning the pump off, but you
are free to choose. Before our modifications the filter operated at much higher pressures
than we use for fish ponds therefore the pump off or on is not much of an issue, unless
your pump is ¾ horsepower or more. Always rotate the top control handle in a direction
opposite the closed position when making position changes while the pump is running.
1. The first step to backwashing is to open the
bottom drain with the pump running. This will allow any sludge and sediment buildup to
discharge from the bottom of the filter. The sludge will come out very quickly, therefore
the valve has to be opened only for a few seconds.
2. Second, with the pump off or on, reposition the
top control handle to the BACKWASH position. At first you will see only clear water flow
out of the waste line, then the dirt and waste will begin to exit the filter. Once the
water runs clear, reposition the handle to the RINSE position to reload the media into the
top of the tank and allow the water to run again until clear. Finally, reset the control
handle to the FILTER position and you are finished.
Special Note: You will probably notice that the
discharge from the waste lines will have a very foul odor. This is good, and a sign that
your beneficial bacteria are developed and healthy.
Additional Note: If you use a pump that is over ¼
HP or 1200 gph and leave the pump running while changing the control valve position.
Always rotate the handle without crossing over the CLOSED position. This will eliminate
the possibility of the handle slipping out of your hand into the CLOSED position, which
may over-pressurize components and damage the unit.
Advanced Backwashing:
Advanced backwashing is completely unnecessary if
your filter has the Dyna~max air assist.
If you wish, you can perform an advanced backwash no
more often than once per month. If you perform an advanced backwash every two to three
months, it is usually not necessary to remove the control valve and diffuser in the spring
or fall for an annual unclogging procedure. To perform an advanced backwash you will need
to be running at least a 2200 gph pump on the Model .60. Advanced backwashing works
exactly the same as a normal backwash with only a couple of exceptions.
1. Turn your pump off.
2. Position the control handle half way between the
FILTER and RINSE positions on the control head.
3. Open the bottom sludge drain and allow
approximately half of the water in the filter to drain out. Tap on the container to
determine the water level. If beads start coming out the sludge valve you are draining too
much water.
4. Position the control handle in the BACKWASH
position and turn the pump on for a couple of minutes or until the water begins to clear.
5. Once the water begins to clear, change the
control handle to the RINSE position untuil the water runs as clear as your pond water.
(It will take a minute or two before the rinse water discharges, as the filter has to
refill with water.)
6. Reset the control valve to the FILTER position
and you are back in business.
This may sound a little complicated at first, but
the advanced backwash takes only five or ten minutes to complete, and you never get your
hands wet!
Pump Sizing Suggested Recommendations: Low Speeds
____Model .60 / 1200 - 2200 GPH ____Model 2.2 / 2200
- 5000 GPH
____Model 1.1 / 2200 - 3900 GPH ____Model 4.4 / 1/4
HP and up
Pump Sizing Suggested Recommendations: High Speeds
to Backwash
____Model .60 / 3900 GPH ____Model 2.2 / 5000 GPH
____Model 1.1 / 3900 GPH ____Model 4.4 / 1/4 HP and
up
As of the introduction of our latest development
known as the Dyna~Max air-assist bead pre-rinse option, you can actually use quite small
single or dual speed pumps to backwash the filter systems supporting this option. even the
largest Model 2.2 or 4.4 only require 50 to 60 gallons of water to completely clear the
filter of waste or debris.
SEE Dyna~Max
For best performance it is best to use a two speed
external pump to power your Aquadyne system. You benefit in a lower power consumption, and
also get the electrical cords out ot the water, avoiding electrical complications from a
shorted out pump. You will filter on low speed and use the high speed to backwash the
system. Our Jacuzzi High effeciency, and William Lim Pumps are ideal single and 2 speed
external pumps that use as little as 2.6 amps of power on low. That is as good or better
than most any 2200 gph submersable. It is not recommended that you use a smaller pump than
is recommended. The diffuser column has been designed for best performance when using the
recommended pump sizes. If using an undersized pump, effective backwashing may not be
possible unlessyou have opted for the Dyna~Max system. (Standard equipment on Models 4.4
and 8.8)
Medicating Your Pond:
At times it may be necessary to add medications to
your pond that will harm the beneficial bacteria in your biological filter. In this case
you will simply position the top control handle to the RECIRC. position. Always perform a
BACKWASH cycle before closing off your filter from circulation. This will clear the filter
of waste and prevent it from becoming septic. Before returning the filter to normal
operation, backwash the filter again for a short time to discharge any septic water that
may have formed in the filter while being bypassed. RECIRC. allows the water coming from
the pump to bypass the filter completely and recirculate to the pond without passing
through the filter media, and thus not killing the biological capacity of your filter. The
beneficial bacteria should be able to survive in the closed system for many weeks. When
you return your filter to normal operation after an extended period of medicating, the
capacity of the filter may be stunted for a short time, but should catch back up with the
demand of your pond within a couple of days. Always perform a 50% water change after
medicating your pond.
Draining Your Pond and Water Changes:
Typically, the backwashing process will discharge
enough water over a couple of backwashings to satisfy your water change needs. However, if
you need to remove large sums of water from your pond for cleaning or other purposes,
simply rotate the control head handle to the WASTE position and the pond water will be
drained to waste without passing through the filter as long as the pump or suction line is
under water.
Winterizing Your Filter:
Many people find is necessary to shut their pumps
off in the winter time. If this is the case you will need to winterize your pump and
filter system. First, perform a complete backwash cycle and shut your pump off. Then
rotate your control head handle halfway between any two positions labeled on the head and
leave it. Next, remove the winterizing cap from the bottom of the filter and allow all of
the water in the filter to drain out. The beads will not fall out this hole as there is a
screen on the inside to prevent this from happening. Draining through the winterizing cap
port may take an hour or so. DO NOT fully open the waste drain valve to drain the water
because the beads will wash out by the hundreds. ONLY AFTER most all of the water has
drained out of the filter will you crack the bottom drain valve just until the last bit of
water begins to slowly drain. Leave the valve cracked just a little to prevent any water
from freezing in the pipe. Do not be alarmed if on occasion you loose a few beads from the
lower waste drain. This is normal as on occasion some beads will be trapped in clumps of
waste that will discharge through the drain. You could loose several pounds of beads
before you ever affected the filters capacity. Replacement beads are available if you
should ever want to top off your filter, but be cautious not to add more than the
specified weight for your filter, as the filter has been designed to function properly
with a specific quantity of beads.
The Dreaded Filter Clog ( That you will
likely never experience, especially with the Dyna~Max option.)
This is where we shine. Most bead filters on the
market today are designed so that you have no access to the media. If most filters clog,
you have a clogged filter that will take hours to repair. Not so here!
If you were smart, you installed union fittings in
the plumbing just off the filter head. If not this is a good time to make the small
investment.
To unclog your Aquadyne filter system follow
these simple instructions.
1. Turn off your pump.
2. Disconnect your union fittings from the head.
3. Place the control handle between any two
positions.
4. Remove the freeze drain cap and allow 3 to 4
gallons of water to drain and replace the cap. Or, if you are careful not to drain more
than a few gallons just crack the sludge valve open and the water will drain much faster.
If the water level gets too low in the tank, you will start to loose beads through the
sludge valve. If this happens just toss them back in.
5. Loosen and remove the neck lock ring.
6. Remove the head and diffuser from the tank,
swishing the diffuser up and down simultaneously to wash the beads off the column.
7. Take your hand or a short board or other object
and stir the beads very well, breaking loose any compacted debris that may be clogging the
beads.
8. Re-assemble the head, neck clamp, and unions.
Place the control handle in the BACKWASH position and turn the pump on. This will continue
to wash any trapped debris in the filter out the waste line. When the BACKWASH waste water
runs nearly clear, open the sludge valve and let the sedimented dirt escape. Once all
waste water runs clear, close the sludge valve and place the control valve in the RINSE
position until the rinse water runs clear. Open the sludge valve once more for a couple of
seconds to discharge any remaining debris in the bottom of the tank. Reposition the
control valve in the FILTER position and you are done.
NOTE: It is recommended that you perform this
unclogging procedure whether needed or not about once or twice per year in the spring or
fall, to assure that your filter is clear of heavy waste products. This is especially
important if you are using a low volume pump. If you performing successful Advanced
Backwashes this unclogging procedure may not be necessary. If you have the Dyna~Max air
assist system, it is likely that your filter system will never have to be opened at all,
(unless you are just curious).
Vacation
If you plan to be away from your pond for an
extended period of time, there is no need to worry about backwashing your filter while you
are away. The filter is designed so that there is littlle resistance to water flow through
the media and diffuser column. If you are normally backwashing once per week and not
getting an extreme amount of dirt waste from the filter, you can leave you filter running
for three to four weeks unattended, depending on the filter size and fish load, but you
will want to perform a very good backwash, or possibly an advanced backwash upon returning
to assure that the filter is clean.
There is a word of caution: When leaving your filter
for long periods of time, be sure to buffer your pond water. The Aquadyne filter together
with the decomposition bacteria in your filter are so efficient that a pH shift may occur
if your water is not buffered.
Are you ready to STOP the constant washing of messy
filter pads and actually spend more time enjoying your pond?
Aquadyne almost allows you to be unconcerned about
the quality of your water. Aquadyne is virtually the most maintenance free filtration
system on the market. Feel free to take a chance at something that is often
mis-represented in advertising world. Aquadyne truly offers a "0" complaint
system, with no buyers remorse.
This document is formatted to print 5 pages at 8.5 x
11 on your printer by entering FILE PRINT on your web browser.
Back
|