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In this issue:
- Overwintering Turtles - UPDATE!
- Koi with "Open Mouth"
- Pond Pump Clogging Up
- Clearing Up Murky, Tea-Colored Water
- Scheduling a Fall Pond Cleaning
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UPDATE FROM CAROLYN ON OVERWINTERING TURTLES:
My friend that leaves his turtles out in his pond says that
he DOESN'T leave the filters running. If one turtle dies
the bacteria can kill all the other turtles. He says that
happened to him one year, so DON'T leave the filters running!
Question #1>
Hello Carolyn,
I have a pond 4ft. deep approx 7000 gal.I recently noticed one of
the ten Koi in the pond to be swimming on the bottom and not
staying with the others. Upon closer examination I found that the
fish had its mouth open all the time.
I've checked water balance and all checks well. I have an Aqua bead
filter system, change 25% water weekly and all the other fish
appear to be fine.
In the past three days the problem fish has started to be very
active and is again staying with the other Koi. His mouth is still
open and it doesn't appear that he even trys to close it (possibly
unable to?). It now feeds by forcing food into its mouth with speed
as it can not grab the food.
Any idea of what the problem could have been or what may have
caused it? The pond is about eighteen months old. Thank you in
advance and I love your web site.
==
Answer #1>
Hello,
YES, I DO!! I was just reading Dr. Erik Johnson's book today, Koi
Health & Disease, and there is a section on Open Mouth in koi. The
problem is often a rock or acorn, something lodged in there that
won't allow the fish to close the mouth. It will be a serious
problem with eating.
You need to catch the fish and examine the mouth. After catching
the fish, I would recommend using Eugenol (5 drops/10 gallons) to
anesthetize the fish so you can examine the mouth and gills for
foreign objects and resulting damage.
It won't be long before the fish has a secondary bacterial
infection and goes downhill...
Regards,
Carolyn
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Question #2>
Hi Carolyn,
My Blagdon 3 in 1 Filter (for ponds up to 350 gal) needs to be
cleaned out every 4 or 5 days. I had hoped it would be energetic
for much longer than this ( e.g. up to a couple of weeks at least).
I've got a Pondmaster MKII 1300 fountain pump which can process
100llL per hour so I think the pump and filter are well matched.
The pond water is fairly clear but I just know the fountain pump
will once again become clogged with green stuff in another couple
of days and back I go to clean it out.
Is there something I can do to make this a longer term action?
==
Answer #2>
Hi,
if you raise the pump off the bottom you will not collect so much
debris. Or if you place it somewhere other than beneath the
waterfall where it is constantly turbulent, I think it will be more
satisfactory for you.
Do you have a sock over the pump to keep out debris? Do you have a
UV light to kill some of the free-floating algae? And are you
doing water changes to limit the nitrate and phosphate levels that
are creating that green stuff?
Regards,
Carolyn
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GALLERIA!
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Question #3>
Hi Carolyn,
I have a 1200 gallon pond with 3 large koi and 25+ 6 inch or more
goldfish, with a Medium Fishmate biofilter with a UV that's
supposed to made for ponds up to 2000 gallons or more.
My question is I have had a problem with murky, tea-colored water
for the last two years and can't seem to get my pond clear to the
bottom.
I use Microbe Lift products, change out some water, 10%-20% every
other week or so, and clean the filter at that time too.I have
vacuumed the bottom and there usually is minimal sludge, little
leaves. I don't have a big problem of leaves falling in the pond in
spring or summer, but Im not sure if I have a little runoff either.
What I'd like to know is how to clear up this murkiness and do I
need to upgrade to a bigger filter system just due to fish load. I
would like to have another with a UV to keep the algae at bay.
Thanks Carolyn!
==
Answer #3>
Hi,
You need to size your filter for the fish load, not the amount of
water. Sure, the pump will be sized according to how much water
you need to push, but the filter has to handle all the fish waste
and environmental debris that lands in the pond. It's a very big
job... and fish keep growing all the time! On top of that, we
enjoy feeding them. So there is a lot of stuff going into the pond
which a filter has to take out.
The murkiness may be a combination of leaves and algae in your
system. It can be in the filter, stuck between rocks, or laying
very quietly on the bottom. The leaves don't have to be large to
discolor water.
This time of year I would recommend using Microbe-Lift/Autumn
Winter Prep with the cold weather liquid bacteria and water soluble
packets of cellulase enzyme to accelerate breakdown of leaf matter.
Then, in spring, for good measure, use the Spring Summer Cleaner in
case you missed any leaves. Unless you have a bottom drain, you
will have leaves and other stuff collecting on the bottom from time
to time. The AWP and SSC can do a good job at cleaning it up. If
you have a net to cover the pond and prevent some leaves from
entering, all the better.
As far as runoff goes, do you use colored mulch?? If so, stop
using that and go with stones next year. Let's get this thing
cleared up once and for all.
Regards,
Carolyn
MacArthur Water Gardens carries Microbe Lift products. Click the
ink below for additional information:
http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/R/microbe-lift.htm
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Question #4>
Hi Carolyn,
I've been reading your Q&A for some time and enjoy them very
much. My question is I want to clean my 11,000 gl pond before winter
really sets in. I live in western Colorado so the winters are not
too bad. I plan to remove the fish and place them into a stock
tank during the cleaning process (2 days).
Should I do this before the water temp goes below 50 and the fish
are still very active, or should I wait until they are more calm.
I understand that I need to treat the new water before I place
them back into the pond.
What is your thought on this?
==
Answer #4>
Hi,
There are pros and cons about moving the fish after the temperatures
drop below 50F. Netting and moving fish is stressful at any time
of the year and will elicit a stress-hormone response. If the fish
aren’t able to relax and recover from this experience, or consider
this too traumatic, they could conceivably die.
I think it might be less toxic for them to have the work done
before the temperatures drop that low. Their ability to recover is
greater in warmer water.
Be sure you have a good strong net over the top of that tank
because I had one of my fish jump out this past weekend, even with
a net over it. Nearly lost her.
Regards,
Carolyn
========== @SK Carolyn =================
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